![]() Torque your tensioner bolt to 38 foot-pounds. We're going to take the 5mm Allen wrench that we have, put in the tensioner, and press on it until the belt is firm and then tighten back up your 14mm. Recheck to make sure that your timing marks are lined up. When you've got it on, make sure that the teeth all line up on the belt and sprocket for the cam and for the crankshaft. Then down, a little hard to see, but the white mark that's on your crank pulley should line up with the white mark that's on the block of the engine. The light should go right through that hole and light up the red mark behind it. Shine a light directly at the front pulley. Make sure your engine is in the right position. ![]() The old and the new tensioners look exactly the same and they're going to go on the same way. This should be tightened up between 25 and 30 foot-pounds. We'll speed up here as we put the bolt in place for that idler pulley and then tighten it up. ![]() I've got the new one here and you can see they're the exact same and it's going to go in just the way it came out. When you tighten these up, you should tighten them to between about 17 and 19 foot-pounds. ![]() Basically, Don just puts it down into place and then gets all the bolts started in by hand first, and then tightens them up. We've used a little spray adhesive on the gasket to hold it here in place while we put it back in. We've got the old water pump and the new part. The better you clean it off the better it will seal when you put it back together. Be sure to clean all of the gasket material off as well as you can. The other part of it is on the block and we're going to clean that up with a straight blade razor. You see, in the old pump, some of the gasket stayed with the pump. We have the catch pan in there to get as much of the water as possible. The water came out because we weren't able to drain from the plug beforehand. Use a hammer to tap on the water pump to break it free. So, that's seven bolts, in all, that hold that water pump in. We'll fast forward here as we remove those last three. Locate your three bolts that are remaining holding in your water pump and those are 12 mm. Once you loosen up one of them, the power steering pump can be moved, slid up a little bit out of the way to get to the other one. You can see it's a matter of using different size extensions to get to the bolts. We'll speed up, here, as we remove those bolts. There are two more 12mm bolts that hold that bracket that are in behind where that power steering pulley is. Locate your two 12 mm bolts that hold the bracket to the water pump and to the alternator and power steering bracket and remove those. We couldn't remove it so we're just going to knock the water pump off, and let it drain into the pan that way. In this case the bolt is too rusted in there. There's an 8mm Allen bolt right in there and that's right below the water pump and if you remove that and have a container underneath it'll drain out your coolant to below the water pump level. Locate the drain plug on the radiator, right here. With these out of the way, you can slip the belt right off and out. You will need a 5mm Allen wrench, a razor blade and holder to clean off the gasket area for the water pump, a torque wrench, as well as what I didn't mention here was a catch pan for catching the coolant from the engine. The first set of tools are basically the same. In this one we're going to show you how to change the water pump, and then, put the timing belt back on, and put everything back together. In the first part, we took basically the front of the engine apart and removed the timing belt. This is a second part of a two part series. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of. Brought to you by, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
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